This is how I fitted the internals to the main body. See the pictures below for visuals.
At this point I painted the model chrome, but you may prefer to paint at the end as there’s some handling of the model.
Lay the tail lights into the tail wings so they shine through the clear tail light ends. I recommend connecting up and testing everything works before glueing everything together (I speak from experience).
For the plasma gun, fix the purple LED with it’s anode & cathode down the length of the gun and use heat shrink tubing to secure in place. It doesn’t show once spray-painted silver.
From the last two pictures, you can see how the cabling comes down from the model into the base electronics and how the peripherals are linked to the base electronics also. There are more pictures of the cabling later.
Once you have everything connected up, it’s time to mount the model on a stand. I used Lego because you can build it to fit yor needs (and I had some old lego left over from my childhood). Other options might be suitable. With Lego I had to modify some parts so they held the turn servo securely in place (a ladder with the rungs filed flat).
My first version didn’t have the rotate servo underneath and used arms to turn the main shaft. See the design on BrickLink. There was some wobble when turning the model back and forth.
After some experimentation, I built a base around the MG90S turn servo with flat tiles on top. The servo horn was glued to a plate with a hole (with some filing of the underside). The hole so the screw can hold the horn onto the servo. I then layed the tilt servo flat (to minimise height) using some 90 degree brackets and a Technical Lego strut up to the model (bound with black tape in the pictures).
You can see the two (white) right angle brackets facing away from each other and the other grey right angle bracket attached to the strut (partially covered with the black tape in the picture).
This Lego all fits in the base unit of my model and is hot-glued down to keep it still. The remote control sensor protrudes at the front and the power socket out the back. You would need to build your base mount to fit your base unit.
To stop the cables interfering with the turn motion, I hot-glued the circuit boards onto a platform with space underneath to route power and signal cables underneath. The one unconnected black ground wire is for the red and blue lights on the top of the base unit.
To make the top of the base unit, I duplicated the original base using mold making silicone and resin. Once cured, I cut it so it fits round the stand and tilt struts upto the model. I laid the red and blue base unit lights, hot-glued on the underside with the cables crossing at the back of the underside (near a hinge made from black tape).
Putting everything together hides the base mount in the base unit. With some painting, decals and model railway gravel, the Terminator Aerial Hunter-Killer enhancements are complete.